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By Tom Padgham, Quartermaster
The right equipment is essential to any expedition and before departing, the team spent a long time deliberating on what would be necessary on a trekking expedition to Nepal. Our directive was a lightweight and mobile expedition, hence efforts were made to cut down on any 'unnecessary' equipment. As it turns out, porters to carry the loads were incredibly cheap, so any extra/useless gear could easily be put in a porter's load, but the amount of equipment could become excessive if efforts are not made to decide on the essentials. Another driving factor for reducing weight was the airline's limit on baggage weight. We actually found out at the airport that we had an extra 10kg per person on the way out, but the standard 20kg on the return journey. The only advice in this instance is to check thoroughly with the travel agent concerning baggage limits.
Cost of equipment is important to any expedition, but especially so for a student expedition. We managed to obtain discounts from four equipment companies :- Field and Trek; SMC (including Rab down equipment); Terra Nova and BCB (medical supplies). Of course, it would have been nice to be sponsored by an equipment company, but there are so many commercial and private expeditions vying for help from companies that it is only the larger expeditions with famous mountaineers who get such help.
Here are a few points to note specifically concerning expeditions in Nepal : ·
The majority of basic equipment can be bought in Kathmandu, and very cheaply at that. Seeing as all flights land in Kathmandu, some time can be spent buying kitchen equipment (which the cook/sherpa uses), food, fuel and containers, extra mountain equipment (including snow shovel and stakes), and any personal kit that has been forgotten. Fleece clothing is particularly plentiful and cheap.
If a trekking company is being used to organise the Nepal end of the expedition, they will organise what the sherpas and porters will be eating, sleeping in and wearing at altitude, though you might want to check that they're properly catered for.
Specialist equipment should be bought at home as the availability and quality in Nepal is suspect.
Expedition barrels or large duffel bags are not suitable for porters to carry. They prefer 'doko' - locally made wicker baskets which they carry using a strap over their head. Buy on arrival for about 90 rps each.
Some travel books tell horror stories of porters running off with equipment half way through a trek. Whilst this has happened on occasion, it is rare and generally happens to people who are on their own and hire random porters. Generally speaking, the Nepalese are not prone to serious thieving. A team on an expedition run through a good trekking company should be able to relax in the knowledge that the sherpas are keeping an eye on the equipment and porters. We experienced some small thefts, which fortunately occurred at the end of the expedition, and was probably motivated by the porters supplementing their meagre income. If there are any worries, a small padlock on a bag will prevent petty thefts from porter loads.
Here is a list of things which team members found either essential or wished they had taken for the trek (excluding normal camping equipment) :-
Here is a list of things team members found useless during the trek :-
Our thanks goes to the following organisations for their help in supplying the expedition with important equipment :- Imperial College Exploration Board (tents and stoves) Imperial College Union Outdoor Club (stove) Field and Trek (general outdoor equipment) SMC (clothing and climbing equipment) Terra Nova (clothing and tent).
For those still not satisfied, below is a complete list of the equipment we took with us from home. It does not include stuff bought on arrival, which was essentially all kitchen equipment, fuel and food.
| Group Kit - Climbing | ||
| Number | Item | Comments |
| 4 | 9mm x 50m climbing ropes | Only two needed |
| 1 each | Hexs sizes 3 - 9 | Not used |
| 1 each | Nuts sizes 1 - 9 | Not used |
| 2 | Nut keys | |
| 8 | Long quick draws / extenders | Too many |
| 6 | Ice screws | |
| 4 | Snow stakes | Buy these in Kathmandu |
| 1 | Technical ice axe pair | |
| 30m | 6mm climbing rope - general use | Too much. |
| 1 | Snow shovel | |
| Group Kit - Trekking and Camping | ||
| Number | Item | Comments |
| 2 | Quasar / UltraQuasar tents | Recommended |
| 1 | Large base-camp tent | |
| 3 | MSR Whisperlight mountain stoves | DO NOT WORK OVER 5100m ! |
| 4 | MSR Fuel bottles | |
| 6 | 'Schnider' maps and guides | See Resources for more information |
| 3 | Compasses & map cases | |
| 1 | Expedition first-aid kit | See Medical Report for more information |
| 2 | Altimeters (Avocet type - excellent) | |
| 1 | Toilet trowel & pick axe | Unnecessary |
| 6 | Bottles of iodene | Essential |
| Lots | Gaffer tape | Invaluable |
| Repair kits | Thermarest, crampon, tent, stove & sewing kit | |
| String | Hard to get in Kathmandu | |
| 6 | Spare batteries & bulbs for Petzls | Hard to get in Kathmandu |
| 2 | Spare pair of gloves | |
| $11,000 | Money | See Finance Report for more information |
| Bootwax | ||
| 1 | Radio | Good for news and weather |
| Personal Kit - Climbing | ||
| Number | Item | Comments |
| 1 | Harness | Everything on this list is essential |
| 4 | Slings with Karabiners | |
| 1 | Belay device with Karabiner | |
| 3 | Prussik loops | One extra long for glacier-crossing |
| 1 | Pair Crampons | |
| 1 | Helmet | |
| 1 | Walking ice-axe | |
| 1 | Pair plastic climbing boots | Leather boots are not warm enough |
| 1 | Sunglasses / Goggles | |
| Personal Kit - Trekking and Camping | ||
| Number | Item | Comments |
| 1 | Down sleeping bag | Must be good to -15 C |
| 1 |
Thermarest sleeping mat |
|
| 1 | Waterproof shell | Jacket & Salopettes |
| 1 | Pair walking boots / trekking shoes | |
| 1 | Pair gaiters | |
| Several | Warm outer layers | Down jacket or 2-3 fleeces or jumpers |
| Several | Mid layers | T-shirts etc |
| 1 | Set thermals | With long arms and legs |
| 1 - 2 | Pair walking trousers/shorts | |
| Some | Underwear | Don't forget climbing socks |
| 2 - 3 | Pairs gloves | Waterproof shells with warm liners |
| 1 | Wooly hat/balaclava & sun hat | Bring something to keep the sun off your neck |
| 1 | Washkit | |
| 1 | Waterbottle | |
| 1 | Personal first-aid kit / medicines | |
| 1 | Knife & lighters | |
| 1 | Camera, films & spare battery | |
| 1 | Petzl head-torch & spare batteries | |
| Lots | Cards, books and other entertainments | |
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