We had planned to make an early start due to the risk of rock fall, and I wake up to a rising sense of panic. During breakfast, the sun hits the mountain and we get moving as fast as possible.

Descending the Khumbu Glacier Photo (c) Jeremy Thomson 1998

The trail clings to the steep rocky side, passing right under the rock chute we saw yesterday. At this time in the morning, though, everything's still frozen and there's no sign of action.

We soon come to a steep and dangerous looking rock rake, and the porters opt to wait for sherpa Pasang to set up ropes. Antoine and I go to investigate and discover it to be much easier than it looked from above, though with no less risk of Rock fall. Explaining as best we could to the porters to leave a few minutes between descents, we scrambled down trying our best not to scatter stones on one-another's heads.

Dr Julian gallantly brings up the rear in case of injury (or was he the only one smart enough to go last?). The only person to be hit is Sue, who gets a rock on her head. Since her cranium is already famous for attracting falling objects she has wisely donned a helmet and is unhurt.

Looking back, we see a near-vertical step in the Khumbu glacier which explains our nasty rock detour - it really is the only way up the pass. We also spot some climbers attempting the steep north east face of Parchamo.

The stomp down the Khumbu glacier is rocky but pleasant going and it is interesting to see the ice formations and return of vegetation and we descend. Laid out below us is the village of Thame Og with its hydroelectric plant that supplies Namche Bazaar and surrounding villages with power.

Before we reach the village, Kami takes Antoine and I on a detour to see the Thame monastery. It's the first time we've seen a ceremony taking place, and also the most ornate and brightly decorated gonpa so far. We crouch down in the corner, awed by the atmosphere, and watch the monks chanting and playing cymbals, pipes and drums. The chant is hypnotic, and gradually accelerates to a ground-shaking climax.

After getting ripped off for a postcard of the monastery, we find an excellent campsite in the village and settle down to the dubious luxury of electric light and chhang so strong it smells of air-fix.