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| Sunrise over Parchamo Photo (c) Jeremy Thomson 1998 |
The morning flask of hot tea arrives at 5am, but we haven't had much sleep due to the altitude. By 6.15 we're packed and off, walking across the glacier in the watery dawn.
At the pass we rope up in two groups with a sherpa each and start up the 40 - 45 degree snow slopes towards the peak. The American party we passed on the Tesi Labsta have left fixed ropes and footprints behind. The ropes are really not necessary as the snow is in good condition and the slopes are not too steep.
Alan is leading at a good steady pace, and we are able to stay far enough around the mountain to avoid the sunshine. However, this means that it is very cold on the feet and mine are starting to get numb in my leather Meindls.
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| Looking back down the summit ridge Photo (c) Jeremy Thomson 1998 |
At about 6000m we reach a flat-topped shoulder and stop for a rest. I take off my boots and start massaging my feet. Pasang sees this, and immediately joins in, rubbing one with practiced vigour. They soon come back to life, and we continue around the shoulder and into the sun shine.
The route is now following a handsome and varied set of ridges punctuated with occasional ice caverns. At a few points the route becomes steep and requires some belaying and easy ice-technique but on the whole it is interesting but straightforward. After a few hours, we ascend a steep section heading straight to the crest of the ridge through a little pass.
From the top we can see the summit ridge sweeping elegantly away and up to the rounded peak, which is far more beautiful up close than from the path. As we approach at our slow pace, all fatigue suddenly disappears to be replaced with a thrilling sense of elation. We've done it! 6225m (by our altimeters) above sea level, right in the middle of the most beautiful mountains in the world, and in perfect weather.
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| Pasang points out Kwange, out next objective Photo (c) Tom Padgham 1998 |
I throw my arms around Tom, and nearly break his nose with my helmet. The view is astounding. We can see a hundred miles all around, not to mention seven or eight 8000m mountains. Everest and Lhotse seem close by, Makalu and Choy Oyu are clearly visible and in the distance we can even make out Annapurna and Dalaguri.
The Rolwaling and Khumbu valleys sweep dramatically away in opposite directions. We also have a clear view of our next objective, Kwangde. We eat lunch, take pictures and have a sing-song, but something about the thin air seems to make it impossible to stay in tune..
The descent us uneventful, but is accompanied by the usual altitude / sun / dehydration headaches. At the foot of the mountain we take a shortcut across the glacier to the camp and get bogged down in deep snow. Three hours from the pass and we're get back, and can't find an iota of shade in our mountainside campsite. There is almost continuous rock fall below the camp, so there is no question of descending today.
Another party arrives at the pass and camps in the more dangerous spots unprotected by the overhang. They're not planning to climb, though.