For more information and climbing notes on the Tesi Labsta, see Alan's Mountaineering Report

The nights are getting seriously cold now, and any movement in the tent sends down a shower of frosty particles.

We've made an early start to avoid any rockfall, and by 5.30am we are on our way. The rake leading up turns out to be reasonable going, and at this time in the morning all the rocks are well frozen on. It gets a bit steep and loose in places, but it's certainly nicer than it looks.

We soon reach an icy plateau with a little step, and an American expedition on their way down. A traffic jam quickly builds up, so I get out my axe and cut some new steps up the little ice ramp. The trail turns north and wanders up another glacier. This is a gently-inclined one, with a good solid ice surface rather than rocks, and makes for fast easy progress.

Alan on the Tesi Labsta Photo (c) Jeremy Thomson 1998

From here we can clearly see the foreboding west face of Parchamo - our next objective - towering above us. Past Parchamo and we can finally see the notorious Tesi Labsta. A twenty to thirty degree snow slope leads upwards into the blinding sunlight.

Alan and I decide that it's gentle enough to walk up without crampons, and head directly up the centre of the slope, with Tom close behind. The Porters don't like to walk on snow, and opt to climb up the rock on the west bank, risking stonefall.

Despite the easy slopes, the bleaching sunlight and altitude are taking their toll on us. Resting frequently and leaving silly messages in the snow for each other, it seems to take forever to ascend the meandering trail to the flags and monuments at the crest of the pass.

The campsite lies under the immense sheer side of Tengi Ragi Tau, protected by a massive overhang, some 500m from the pass itself. We wait, dazed, for the others to join us while we gratefully sip tea supplied by the porters.

Snow slopes below Tesi Labsta Photo (c) Tom Padgham 1998

No one appears, and the sherpas double back to investigate. Eventually, exhasted and confused, Antoine, Tom and Julian surmount the col and collapse by the chotara. The sherpas follow, having been helping with the rucksacks and they are gradually revived with tea and chocolate. Today has been our first unforgettable lesson in the dangerous effects of over exertion and altitude (5700m), and nobody is in the mood for the big climb tommorrow.

The campsite seems to be a parabolic sun mirror with us at the focus. It is roastingly hot with absolutely no shade or breeze. Bizarre acoustics contribute to the disconcerting location, though not as much as the frequent rock falls hurtling down below the camp. The cool of evening is very welcome.