All our previous climbing experience has been on unguided climbs in the alps, so we are planning to make an alpine-style ascent to the Yalung base camp. To this end, we have packed just one Quasar tent, two lightweight MSR stoves and mountain rations of soup and pasta.

Pasang, though, has other ideas. Two hours later he has amassed two large tents, a huge stove, four porters, a kitchen boy and enough food for about six weeks. We have just had our first lesson in Himalayan style climbing.

The route towards Ramdung is well-established, starting near the biggest boulder in the 'lorry park' and running in zig zags up steep grassy ridges towards the Yalung La pass. We labour slowly up the slope in weather conditions reminiscent of the Lakes in March. Half way, there are some abandoned dwellings which make a good lunch spot.

Yalung base camp Photo (c) Tom Padgham 1998

Afterwards we slow down even more, and it takes us three and a half hours to make the 700m ascent to the base camp (in a alluvial bowl near a sharp kink in the path on the Schneider map). While we collapse in a heap and try to get our breath back, Pasang shoots off again and disappears over the ridge. Perhaps an hour later he returns, and explains that he's just been to visit the Ramdung high camp! Apparently, a landslide has blocked the route, and fixed ropes may be needed.

After dinner, the three of us somehow squeeze our bodies and down sleeping bags into the little Quasar tent and try to sleep. The altitude does strange things to the brain, and I dream of falling in giant lifts and running through weird underground tunnels.