Day 13 Simigoan to Gylache

We have a lot of climbing to do today to reach Shakpa, where we will finally be in the Rolwaling for proper. We climb some 600m on more stone steps, but after an hour or so the trail quickly deteriorates.

We are following the paths taken by migrating yaks through thick steamy forest, and it is uneven any thickly muddy underfoot. Dead trees block the tiny trail, and bamboo and umbrella plants with sinister red trunks remove all visibility. Alan gets painfully bitten by a tick the size of a fingernail.

By lunch time, we are all thoroughly fed up with the terrain, and slump down on the tarp exhausted. We wait for the stragglers to appear, but Julian has managed to get himself lost. Pasang disappears off to find him and we all start shouting. Eventually he turns up, having just given up hope of ever seeing us again.

Morning Sun Photo (c) Alan Geer 1998

Soon after lunch we come to a junction and the path suddenly improves. We realise that we have been a victim of another of Pasang's famous 'shortcuts'. The trail trundles along the banks of the Rolwaling Chhu river in low-lying woodland.

We stop at the second of two campsites. It's been a short day, but this is the last stopping place until Beding. The campsite is situated in a beautiful spot by the river, and is decorated with flags. There are several huts and houses and even tables and chairs. Best of all, on one of the tables is a bowl of cold water containing bottles of beer. Unable to resist, we treat ourselves and the sherpas to a bottle. This is followed by a jug of the local brew, a thick rice beer called chhang, and dinner.

As we bed down in the tents, one of the huts erupts into harmonious song. The tunes are simple and repetitive, but great for sending us to sleep. We don't know it yet, but this is the first time we have heard 'Resham Pheree Ree' - a song sung throughout the country. I wake up in the small hours with a peculiar sensation in my mouth. With horror, I realise that it is a leech, which is happily is easily detached. Maximum points for grossness.